Up, Up, and Away to Upcountry Maui

The first streams of sunlight shoot deep red, orange, and pink hues over the top of white fluffy clouds and off of rugged mountain outcroppings, making you instantly forget about your groggy stumble out of bed and subsequent drive to the mountaintop where you stand.  You drive past rolling acres of lush farmland on your descent from your elevated plateau, which leads you into a downtown area whose rustic buildings easily lure you to find a breakfast place.  As you nosh on a plate of down-home grub, a gentleman in a pair of intricately carved boots walks past your table and gently doffs his pristine white ten-gallon hat your way.  You leave the eatery thankful that you have some time to kill before you take your scheduled afternoon farm tour, because that will give you some time to check out a couple of the art galleries that caught your eye when you drove into town.  It then strikes you hard:  You absolutely cannot believe you are still in Maui.

That’s right, Maui.  Specifically, Upcountry Maui, the mountainous region that stretches across the central section of the land mass.  To those who think of this island jewel of the Pacific as nothing more than a place of white beaches, turquoise waters, and poolside mai tai consumption, this sprawling area set apart from the high-rise resorts and oceanfront villas featuring elevations as high as 10,000 feet may come across as a surprising, almost otherworldly revelation.  And while an agriculturally-driven area like Upcountry Maui may strike some as odd, its existence makes perfect sense.  Maui is, after all, an island.  Therefore, they do need sustainable resources for food, which is exactly what Upcountry provides.  Along the way, though, other expressive interpretations of island life far removed from the coastal pleasures traditionally associated with the Hawaiian Islands have cropped up alongside the crops, running the gamete from artists to cowboys.   For those who are interested in looking beyond Maui’s well-known, enticing promises of sun worshipping and oceanic play, an exploration of Upcountry’s unique makeup can virtually feel like a vacation within your vacation.

If you are looking to escape to Maui, here are some of the ways that Upcountry can add an extra layer of intrigue to your getaway:

Sunrise at Haleakala National Park – Simply stated, you will never see a more spectacular start to a day than the one that can be experienced at this recreation area.  Dances of light and color that you may not have thought possible in nature burst into glorious light here as they ricochet off of clouds that float below the park’s elevated cliffs.  Yes, you will be tired, which is why it is recommended that you participate in this experience the morning after you arrive, before your body clock has a chance to adjust to the time change.  You will also be cold – remember, you are nearly two miles above sea level.  However, you will spend the rest of your life grateful that you put up with these minor inconveniences in exchange for this glimpse of heaven.

O’o Farm Tour – Monday through Thursday, this farm run by the popular Lahaina restaurants Pacific’O and I’O offers guided tours of its 8.5 agricultural sprawl, where guests can get up close and personal with the eclectic mixture of crops being cultivated on its grounds.  The journey through the land culminates in a special outdoor lunch feast, starring some of the very fruits and vegetables that are gathered during the expedition.  It is farm-to-table dining in its purest form.

Makawao – For over 100 years, the paniolo, or Hawaiian cowboy, have been roaming Upcountry’s open fields, wrangling cattle, tending to ranchlands, and doing all kinds of activities associated with the Old West, infused with a Hawaiian twist.  This small, rural community located on the slopes of Mount Haleakala serves as their hub, as the town carries an overarching vibe not unlike what might have been felt in the days of gunslingers and saloons.  Yet Makawao balances this old-school ambience with a thriving art scene, as plenty of galleries, boutiques, and artisan craft stores provide a hip, modern edge to its distinctively pastoral look.

Surfing Goat Dairy – Rural agriculture meets high-end culinary delight at this farm, located in the center of Upcountry.  As the name would suggest, the property has plenty of goats on hand to observe, either independently or through a guided tour.  More importantly, it offers an abundance of beautiful, award-winning cheeses produced by these noble beasts, as well as other goat’s milk-based artisan items including chocolate truffles and soap.  

Maui’s Winery - Tedeschi Vineyards – Why should you consider taking a trip to this venue, whose Upcountry location is so rural it does not contain a street address?  Pineapple wine, that’s why.  The island’s prized fruit is magically transformed into beautiful, acclaimed wines here, possessing complex fruity notes that pair nicely with seafood, make killer Mimosas, or are simply beautiful to drink all by themselves.   The property also produces several labels of traditional grape wines that can be sampled in its tasting room if you feel so inclined.

These terrific places merely provide a glimpse into the kinds of activities and sights that are waiting to be had at Upcountry Maui, literally just a short car ride from wherever major city or resort you may be staying on the island.   For those who are looking to fully experience Maui in the well-rounded manner it deserves, this centralized, elevated slice of island style is an essential destination.  Besides, you can’t spend all of your Maui vacation lounging around the pool, can you?     

By Rich Manning